Marconi Beach Restaurant

WELLFLEET - Smoke billowing from the front and rear of a restaurant is generally considered a bad sign. But don't call the fire department just yet. "We are always smoking up a storm," says Rich Swart, as he examines six racks of pork ribs in one of three outdoor smoker grills at Russ and Marie's Marconi Beach Restaurant. Prodding an oak log to fall deeper into a concert of flames, Rich begins his third hour of a 12-hour day on Monday tending to the smoky tradition that is Southern barbecue. By day's end, he will have smoked 24 racks of ribs, half as many chickens and a dozenpork briskets. On a weekend day, these numbers triple.

"Smoking meat is something you can't do in a hurry," he said. "You can't be rushed." Authentic barbecue meats are the newest addition for cuisine offered along Route 6 in town. The restaurant is a hundred yards south of the Marconi Station Beach entrance. While the cuisine may be new to the area, the proprietor is not. After a 22-year absence of selling his popular submarine sandwiches in town, Russ Swart returned in May to the exact location where he began in 1976. In the building that formally housed the Nut Hut, Swart began selling his popular steak bombs and other sandwiches under the banner, Russ' Sub Shop.

Five years and one move later, Swart sold the business and pursued a doughnut franchise in Florida in search of a year-round income. Karen Murphy - Russ's friend and frequent customer - was disappointed to see him depart for the Sunshine state. "You always knew you could walk in and see a friendly face behind the counter," said Karen. "He always had a joke and a laugh. It was a nice, real small-town part of it. It's nice to have him back. You see Russ, you know Russ and you know the food is going to be good." Richard Murphy, Karen's husband, said the secret to Russ's early success was his development of the steak bomb.